Originally a modest inn opened in 1822, this Vienne institution was made famous by the emblematic couple of Mado and Fernand Point in the early 20C. It was taken over by Patrick Henriroux in 1989 and has since continued to evolve on his watch: a designer decor in the dining area, the addition of a second restaurant (PH3), a charming hotel and a cocktail bar… As for the food, classical dishes are given a highly precise and pared-back contemporary twist: "fillet of sole with shellfish velouté, tricolour tian with smoky notes"; juicy Aubrac beef tenderloin, millefeuille of potatoes and beef cheeks, Côte-Rôtie jus; chocolate piano, grilled coffee-infused crème anglaise sauce. The breath-taking cellar book is a dizzying array of Côtes-Rôties and Condrieu, wines that go perfectly with this cuisine. It is worth noting that the lunchtime menu is a real bargain, and the slick, polished service upholds the time-honoured traditions of France's grand old establishments.