What Kohei Ikeda tries to do is mix freewheeling imagination into traditional fare, an approach taught by the head of Kikunoi during his apprenticeship there. Fine examples include sea urchin wrapped in sea bream and spring rolls of glass shrimp. He focuses on ingredients from his native Ehime, the better to share its wonders with the world. Born and raised in Uwajima, Ikeda dreamed of becoming a chef in his youth. He never forgets to carry out this ‘original intention’, a phrase reflected in the name of the restaurant.