This restaurant is the brainchild of a young chef with an enviable CV. His classical training shines through, albeit with an intelligent inventive twist, illustrated by his organic 64°C egg, duxelles of (minced) mushrooms, grated Beaufort, pecan nuts and an emulsion of cep oil, or a cappuccino of snails from Gilles Nesme. The glazed wine cellar is a treasure trove of affordable tipples.