The chef taught himself tempura by travelling and sampling various styles. His keen eye for fish derives from once being a sushi chef. From his native Shizuoka, farmers send him produce and fishermen send seafood from Suruga Bay. Lightness and freedom are the qualities he strives for. Lightness he achieves by trapping bubbles in the tempura batter and frying in fresh-pressed sesame oil. The first piece is an unconventional choice: largehead hairtail, also known as scabbard fish. Tempura dipping sauce is warmed to release the aroma. A cup of Kakegawa tea is served after the meal.