Service is omakase prix fixe, with plenty of items. Snacks and nigiri alternate, so the drinks go down smoothly. Our first item, ‘Totomame’, is boiled salmon roe, a Niigata speciality placed on top of chawanmushi to give a taste of home. Rice, salt and sake are sourced from Niigata as well, proclaiming the attractions of the Echigo region. Tuna, from an esteemed wholesaler, is a special point of pride, and three pieces are served in succession.