In a smart, casual room with tan banquettes, powder blue chairs and terrazzo tiled floor, Damian D’Silva, a respected judge from the Singaporean edition of a popular cooking show, champions a novel cuisine that crosses boundaries among Chinese, Peranakan, Eurasian, Indian and Malay cooking. Hearty dishes sit comfortably next to century-old recipes, all prepared with shrewd judgment, and the right amount of oomph. Baca Assam (beef cheek) is unmissable.