Anticipate a little time and patience tackling a winding progressively less urban road to reach, inland, San Desiderio, where Bruxaboschi has been delighting clients since 1862 under the same familial management. It will be worth it. Rightly renowned, the cuisine pays homage to local traditions (nearly exclusively meat), commencing with an excellent Genoese cima, picagge and pansotti among pastas, and fried rabbit. In season, obligingly, is the unmissable fungi engagement.