In Astoria’s Little Egypt, this humble seafood spot channels the spirit of the Alexandria fishing village from which it takes its name. Diners select fish and shellfish directly from the display case before deciding how they’d like them prepared. The room itself remains simple and unfussy, more market than polished restaurant, but the warmth of the hospitality and confidence of the cooking quickly become the focus. Beautifully seared sea scallops arrive deeply caramelized, while fried shrimp are remarkably crisp beneath a dusting of spice. Whole grilled branzino carries fragrant notes of cumin and curry-like spices. Even the baba ganoush stands out, balancing smoky eggplant, assertive garlic and excellent olive oil.