Everything about this restaurant is striking: its location on the eight floor of a converted water tower; its quirky interior design that feels like it’s been pulled from a HG Wells novel; and of course, the superb quality of its cooking. In a distinctly flamboyant setting, the chefs ensure their dishes are still the most memorable part of the experience, with clever construction, depth of flavour and technical skill combining in supremely satisfying fashion. Slow-cooked, meltingly soft beef rib with a gentle chive coating is a standout example.