Marc Cordonnier is thriving in the Batignolles neighbourhood courtesy of a bouncy vibe and a concise menu that changes weekly. This veteran chef signs creative, seasonal, hearty dishes with gutsy flavours and bang-on combinations such as bonito, ajo blanco and redcurrants or ravioles of beef in a stock laced in a spicy oil. His acolyte, Louis Langevin, is a mine of information on the fine selection of natural wines. Ticks all the boxes.