If there are "writers' writers", then there are chefs' chefs. A Meilleur Ouvrier de France, a mainstay of the Ferrandi gastronomy school, promoter of culinary design, restaurateur in Tokyo, Éric Trochon is that sort of chef. He and his sommelier wife preside over this elegant, intimate-feeling restaurant with a decor that blends Brazilian rosewood furnishings and paintings and ceramics by a Korean artist. The menu also errs towards minimalism, with on-point proposals including an omakase menu. The dishes showcase modern cuisine with Asian touches. Two places with a view into the kitchens are available at the counter.