In this 16C château, where period terracotta floor tiles meet stone fireplaces, chef Julien Laval – who previously worked at Restaurant Serge Vieira in Chaudes-Aigues and was a finalist in the French Dessert Championship – is truly coming into his own. His indulgent modern dishes combine top-notch ingredients with a judicious use of international details, and are meticulously presented – take, for example, the foie gras terrine topped with a green tea and hibiscus jelly, served with lychee chutney in kumquat vinegar, or the Dombes duckling prepared two ways: cooked whole and pastilla, accompanied by turnip, lime and cooking juices.