Tables sparkling in the light of opulent chandeliers. Taking ‘classic modern’ as his theme, the chef jealously guards traditional techniques while incorporating Japanese ingredients: French cuisine, but à la japonaise. Thus, he also uses a Japanese-style dashi made from kombu and katsuo. ‘Varier’ is French for ‘to change’, expressing how ingredients shift with the seasons, and the changes to the aroma and flavour of each dish. Crockery, much of which is Mino ware, is richly varied.