Once a coaching inn (c 1800), this restaurant has a refined interior with ceiling mouldings and a fireplace. It is run by chef Géraldine Laubrières, who puts a modern spin on traditional French cuisine, which is expertly served: beef cheek with gentian, warm lobster and chestnut cream, wild boar royale. The desserts are just as dazzling, particularly the soufflé, the flavour of which changes with the seasons. Pleasant service, reasonable prices and an appealing wine list.