Revered chef Tadashi “Edowan” Yoshida commands this seriously impressive counter. Named for the town in Nara Prefecture where his father was born, there is a precise quality to every facet of this space — as in the hinoki counter (sourced from a 300-year-old tree) and handmade chairs to the knives crafted by a master from Saga Prefecture.This meticulous approach carries through to a masterful omakase that features an array of distinct cooked fare in addition to impressively sourced sushi. Meals bring an element of theater, so much so that diners will find themselves leaning in to absorb every detail of this experience, such as the sizzle of the chef’s signature saba maki.