The name may reference Bangkok's original name, Phra Nakhon, but this busy spot is all about the now. The yawning, two-story dining room leads with a long bar and is a constant whirl of energy. It’s not uncommon to arrive to find a completely full house. A wide range of Thai dishes prepared both classically and with contemporary touches feature an abundance of herbs, spices, heat and zeal. The yum kai salad makes for a refreshing, invigorating start before delving into richer specialties like tender mussels stuffed with curry paste custard or marinated pork jowls coated in an electric Thai chili-lime dressing. Other hits include crab fried rice, pad see ew and, for lovers of pork belly, the kang tae po.