An elegantly contemporary dining room punctuated by large portholes seems to herald the menu’s seafood focus: fish dishes arrive at the table, moderately creative yet firmly anchored to prime ingredients. The “nudo e crudo” is the essential selection of the day’s catch served simply, typically featuring at least six different varieties, while the tagliolini with langoustine is elevated with caviar and a creamy white cabbage purée finished with Martini. The heart of the experience, however, remains the quality of the ingredients, the absolute and memorable stars.