There’s a wonderful fusion of setting and cooking at Cornus. A sister to long-standing Chelsea restaurant Medlar, it’s a refined, simply decorated restaurant with linen-laid tables and understated quality. The same goes for the dishes, which are based around superb produce, much of it seafood from the south-west coast. The likes of sweet Devon crab and beautiful Newlyn cod are made all the more delicious by the kitchen’s restrained approach and consummate technical skill. The chefs know they’re using brilliant ingredients, so never overcomplicate matters.