It might be smaller than the glass-fronted office buildings that surround it but this red-brick, Grade II-listed former school certainly holds its own. The magnificent vaulted room lends itself effortlessly to its role as a glamorous brasserie and the atmosphere is buzzy without being overly loud. The cooking is classically French and there are no unnecessary fripperies, just reassuringly familiar combinations with the emphasis on bold, harmonious flavours – such as barbecued monkfish with a textbook, rich yet piquant vin jaune sauce split with herb oil.