Tabata and Ludovic Mey’s restaurant is steeped in an atmosphere reminiscent of a 1930s Orient Express carriage: dark wainscoting, landscape frescoes and claret-coloured banquettes. Never wont to take the easy route, the couple harness their creativity and technical skills to roll out the red carpet for veggies, as is illustrated by the remarkable starter on the Roscoff onion theme, both crunchy and subtly sweet. Another dish, Arctic char flanked by a lemon-spiked marbled buttermilk sauce with tamari, is packed in umami notes, showcasing the couple’s high-flying culinary prowess.