With Edo-style regarded as the classic approach to unagi, the chef trained extensively in Tokyo to master the craft. Here in Kyoto, he brings together eastern and western approaches: unaju, prepared in the eastern style by steaming before grilling, and hitsumabushi, prepared in the western style by grilling the eel directly. He selects eels suited to each method and prepares the tare with soy sauce from eastern or western Japan as appropriate. In the spirit of the adage that mastering skewering takes three years, filleting eight, and grilling a lifetime, the chef refines every step of his craft.