Both charcoal and wood flames are in this restaurant’s arsenal. These ancient heat sources draw out the deliciousness of the free-range Hinai-jidori chicken. The meat is rested in a curing house, judiciously draining moisture to concentrate the flavour. Service begins with a single skewer of breast meat, the better to showcase the poultry’s delicious taste. The chef’s credo is ‘A lifetime in skewering, a lifetime in grilling’. Skewers are built in an inverted triangle, a form that pleases the eye and crystallises knowledge and skill.