‘Rojina’ is said to mean ‘hometown’ in Russian, though the chef was drawn to the sound rather than the meaning. The same natural approach extends to his soba: rather than limiting himself to a particular growing region, he simply selects the finest buckwheat available. He grinds it in a stone mill of his own making and prepares it as juwari soba (100% buckwheat soba). A favourite is “Hari Soba”, its broth strewn with thin slices of sudachi. To allow guests to enjoy a drink with their soba even at lunchtime, he offers a selection of small dishes, allowing them to tailor the meal to the mood of the day.