The residential neighbourhood is like a maze and the restaurant has no sign out front. A spotlight on a bowl of ramen in a showcase indicates you’ve arrived. ‘Ramen’ distils the chef’s experience in Kyoto, pairing clear soup made with seafood dashi and pure soy sauce with house-made Kyoto wheat noodles. Thinly sliced roasted pork fillet is from Kyoto-raised swine. Blue bowls of specially ordered Kiyomizu ware set off each meal to its advantage.