Minimalist in design and complete with a 24-seat hinoki counter, Oru in Houston Heights is just right for diners who want to pop in for handroll and a few pieces of nigiri, or those who want to settle in and order across the menu to sample a wider variety. These dishes are unexpected, as in the wagyu lumpia, a Filipino spring roll tucked with duxelle and wrapped in a thin layer of A5 wagyu for a "reverse beef Wellington." Even the sushi rice is given extra care here, where the rice is cooked in a traditional hagama pot on the counter (the fluffy center portion is used for nigiri like salmon belly, sea bass and Japanese king mackerel). Skip dessert? Not when there is pistachio lava cake on offer.