Late Mr Yang’s first Taiwanese shop opened in 1958 has morphed into a multinational chain with branches all over the world. Although famous for its good service, competitive prices and customer relations, the star of the show is its xiao long bao made on the spot. That said, the noodles also benefit from consummate technique. Try them tossed in house-made scallion puree that bursts with pungent, savoury notes. Expect long queues at peak hours.