Within the Palazzo Doria De Fornari, overlooking the celebrated piazza De Ferrari, one need only cross the threshold and venture into the heart of the building to discover Etra’s discreet entrance: a name that is an anagram of arte (art), evoked by the constantly evolving gallery that adorns the walls of the restaurant, enveloped in dark tones and studied minimalism. The cooking is distinguished by curiosity, verve and technical precision, structured around three tasting menus. Among the most accomplished offerings are the ray bottoni with red prawn tartare and a green vegetable jus, a dish that surprises with its freshness, aromatic character and refinement of execution.