After 10 years at L'Essentiel, Richard and Fanny Bernigaud are writing a new chapter in this 1930s house, with tables laid out over two floors. The chef trained in some top kitchens – Lameloise, Guy Savoy, Joël Robuchon and Stéphane Derbord – and crafts a delightful seasonal menu: Aube trout with a pearlescent finish served with cauliflower and grapefruit, pan-seared beef with a creamy parsnip and green apple purée, and a cardamom jus. For a look behind the scenes, book the eight-place table d'hôte, which is right next to the kitchen.