In 1984, Guy Lassausaie took over the kitchen at this family-run establishment, founded four generations earlier in 1906. In an elegantly refurbished interior done out in shades of grey, black and white, the chef (a Meilleur Ouvrier de France) has charted a remarkably assured course, enthusiastically celebrating local and, more generally, French tradition, with flashes of creativity. Think fillet of brill with vanilla beurre blanc, salsify and porcini, or Ain pigeon hay-roasted in a sealed cocotte, full-bodied jus and baby vegetables. Feelgood food that delivers the odd surprise.