Set in the heart of the Beaujolais vineyard, this elegant establishment is run by a chef with an enviable CV. He draws on classical foundations to deliver quietly inventive dishes: organic 64°C egg, mushroom duxelles, Beaufort shavings, pecans and a porcini-oil emulsion; snails sourced from Gilles Nesme on a parsley royale with hazelnut and cured ham. A well-stocked cheese trolley is presented at the table and the glass-fronted wine cellar showcases an attractive selection at reasonable prices.