Located in the central edifice on Bordeaux's iconic Place de la Bourse, opposite the Miroir d'Eau water feature, this establishment is run by the owners of Château Angelus and Logis de la Cadène in Saint-Émilion. The gorgeous 18C parlours have been converted into a single open space and lavishly appointed – oak floors, thick carpets, wood panelling and mouldings. Young chef Bertrand Noeureuil, who worked with Arnaud Donckele, delights diners with beautiful cuisine inspired by the sea and the seasons – noisette de sole "Chambrelent" au plat, or lightly veiled thin fillets of sardines "Bacalan", escabèche soup, briny leek bonbons. He is also a dab hand at elevating meat in a more classical style that is more rooted in the terroir, such as casseroled "Valencienne" veal risotto and Florentine tarte fine filled with ceps bathed in a walnut wine jus. Staggering wine list with over 1 000 labels.