The heady aroma of spiced marinade will lead you straight to this simple shop tucked away in an alley. Since 1982, this family business, now run by the third generation, has been serving Beijing’s ubiquitous snack food, lu zhu – braised pork loin and pork offal in a savoury marinade are paired with silky tofu and chewy unleavened flatbread that soaks up the sauce. There are only nine tables, so expect to share your table at mealtimes.