In the lavish, richly textured space, strings of glass beads draped from the mirrored ceiling form a dazzling sculpture. The Milanese chef pays tribute to the culinary traditions of Northern Italy, updating them with a sense for playful drama, meticulous plating and modern techniques. Reimagined classics of Piedmont and Lombardy such as vitello tonnato, tagliolini con ragù di agnello, and agnolotti del plin are all immensely satisfying.