On the banks of the Nive beneath the arcades, this inviting eatery savvily mixes old stones and beams with a contemporary edge. The traditional score, updated with Basque overtones, stars wholesome indulgent flavours: bourguignon-style braised chuck beef and cheeks with a pastry stuffed with fresh herbs and winter veg or the granny-approved house dessert, cocolait. Very popular with the locals, La Grange is just the place to get a glimpse of the real Bayonne.