At this singular enclave, Chef Barclay Dodge and his team are executing seasonally inspired cooking that focuses on foraging, fermenting and local farms. The intimate, dimly lit interior reads moody and mysterious, but everything about the experience is open and accommodating, starting with the charmingly loquacious staff and impressive wine list. Though you can opt for a shorter menu, the full chef's tasting paints a complete picture. The likes of cocoa, miso, preserves, nuts and koji are deployed in imaginative, delicious ways. Indeed, this is a team that pays attention to detail — even ingredients from farther afield, like lobster from New England, get a hint of local flavor from being grilled over juniper wood.