Originally a modest inn opened in 1822, this Vienne institution was made famous by the emblematic couple of Mado and Fernand Point in the early 20C. It was taken over by Patrick Henriroux in 1989 and has since continued to evolve on his watch: a designer decor in the dining area, the addition of a second restaurant (PH3), a charming hotel and a cocktail bar… As for the food, classical dishes are given a highly precise and pared-back contemporary twist: artichokes and European lobster, the Camus and baby varieties stuffed with meat from the claws, the tail with its coral ; milk-fed lamb with Provençal moussaka and confit and herb-smoked Chinese aubergine ; chocolate piano, grilled coffee-infused crème anglaise sauce. The breath-taking cellar book is a dizzying array of Côte-Rôtie and Condrieu, wines that go perfectly with this cuisine. It is worth noting that the lunchtime menu is a real bargain, and the slick, polished service upholds the time-honoured traditions of France's grand old establishments.